Huntington is home to many trend-setting restaurants, and Dao, which opened a little more than two months ago and specializes in modern Asian cuisine, is a dazzling new entry.
I must begin with a word about the ambiance because I was completely unprepared for what I was about to experience and it literally stopped me in my tracks.
Formerly home to Empire Szechwan, the building was completely remodeled over the course of the last year and a half, with every attention to detail and comfort. Visitors will marvel at the spacious interior, which resonates with the beauty of fine wood, marble, and elaborate custom molding. Gilded crystal chandeliers and other luxurious accoutrements impart richness and add to the glow. Hats off to Bilian Chen who gave the décor its gracious finishing touches.
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There are three separate eating areas and each offers up its own amenities. You can dine in the handsome piano lounge under an exquisite canopy ceiling composed of tiny shimmering glass tiles. Or there's the dining area boasting elegant banquette seating and those breathtaking gold and crystal chandeliers with the perfect view of the action at the sushi bar. A huge saltwater tropical fish tank separates this area from a third more intimate, romantic one.
According to manager Lawrence Wang, dao is the Chinese word for " the first sprout of a grain of rice," and it aptly describes the long, but fruitful journey that preceded the restaurant's opening. Although rice is an Asian mainstay, Wang explained, its cultivation is painstakingly difficult, and there is cause for celebration when a sprout appears. The same can be said for the renovation process which eventually yielded this eye-catching showplace that is owner Peter Ma's dream.
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If you have never experienced Asian fusion cuisine before, this is the place to embark on a culinary adventure. The food is exceptional and variety is the name of the game.
The idea behind "modern" Asian cuisine is to create a synergy between the East and West, and at Dao, the utmost attention is paid to the quality of the ingredients and the melding of flavor and texture. In some cases, this means taking familiar foods and pumping up the volume by pairing them with new tastes. Grilled lobster, for example, is served over bean sprouts and paired with a spicy creamy sauce. Similarly, the flavor of filet mignon-- and we are talking about grilled organic Angus filet mignon here-- is accented with Ponzu honey mustard sauce. Have a hankering for a pork chop? What about piquing your taste buds with a honey-glazed one served with Vietnamese fish sauce?
The menu is extensive and features a plethora of Asian delights, drawing on Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese. There's old favorites-- General Tso's Chicken, Sesame Chicken, and Szechwan Beef-- or you might want to tantalize your taste buds by eating out of the box, so to speak.
We started off with miso soup and found the golden-hued broth, which was ornamented with tofu and enoki mushrooms, to be both flavorful and full-bodied. I would consider pumpkin or lobster bisque on a future visit.
So many salads, so little time. I was very tempted by those showcasing mango, beets, king crab and avocado but selected the traditional Japanese seaweed salad, and enjoyed these extraordinarily fresh fronds of the sea served with a sweet vinaigrette and sesame dressing.
There are a potpourri of enticing appetizers and I'll keep the crispy calamari and pan-seared sea scallop in mind for future reference. There are both appetizers and entrees from the sushi bar, and you can also order sushi and sashimi à la carte. Both the salmon and tuna were exquisitely fresh. By ordering "omakese," you let the chef be your guide in selecting what he deems to be the best catch of the day.
If you gravitate more to cooked fish than to sushi or sashimi, there's an incredible assortment to tempt both the eye and the palate. I enjoyed a Dragon Roll, a flavorful medley of eel and cucumber layered with a profusion of avocado and masago (red caviar) anointed with eel sauce.
One stand-out suggested to us by the very attentive staff was Crispy Duck, a special that evening. The slices of roasted white breast, complete with its perfectly seasoned skin, were so luscious that you will want to savor every morsel. The duck is served over a bed of mango, lychee, and lily bulb; their delicate tanginess provides just the right contrast.
When I marveled over the tenderness and flavor of "Steak Kew," I was astonished to hear that the dish showcases filet mignon!
Opting for a new taste sensation, we ordered Pad Thai with shrimp and thoroughly enjoyed these flavor-infused noodles.
After the meal, you can enjoy dessert, premium teas, or after- dinner drinks served up at the restaurant's handsome full bar. Of the desserts, the tempura ice cream, tends to be the hands-down favorite, Wang said.
The piano lounge is in full swing every Friday evening from 6 to 9 pm, and the pianist is open to requests. The restaurant is very child-friendly. One night a budding young pianist who was enjoying the cuisine with his family, gave an impromptu performance, which was greeted with a round of applause!
The prices for appetizers range from $5 for edamame tossed with sea salt to $20 for the Kobe Beef Carpaccio. Prices in the Asian Bistro section range from $19 to $26, and gourmet selections, which include USA Kobe beef, go up from there. Rolls or hand-rolls start at $6, with special rolls, like the Dragon Roll, falling in the $12 to $15 price range.
Dao is open Monday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 10 p.m.
